1. CHOSEN ARTIST: Amber Ambrose Auréle
Amber Ambrose Auréle Verstegen earned a bachelor degree in Theatre, Film & Art Direction at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy, Amsterdam in 2008. In 2012 she graduated as one of the first generation Master Shoe Design at ArtEZ Fashion Masters. In addition, she is enrolled in the Master in Art History at the University of Amsterdam, where she worked on her thesis about the cross-fertilization between fashion and art.
Amber is only 25 years old but she is already got her own consumer and developing style. Here is a small interview about her first collection where she used a 3D printing and new techniques:
"Amber is one of those artists who think outside the box and always open for trying and learning new techniques, I wasn’t very surprised to hear that she used 3D printing in her first collection. For me a good reason to interview her.
When did you first hear about 3D printing?
In the past few years I heard more and more about 3D printing. I am amazed by stories that you’ll be able to print objects at your own home in the near future.
Do you get inspired by other fashion designers who use 3D printing?
I can’t remember exactly, but I believe it was fashion designer Iris van Herpen, who introduced 3D printing in her collection. She made me aware of the possibilities of 3D printing and made me think about how I could use it in my collection.
Why did you decide to use 3D printing for your shoe design?
At the early stage of designing my collection I came up with a concept for the heel of one of my shoe designs. The heel was going to look like a wave at it’s breaking point, frozen in time.
The design contained fluid forms and thin, fragile lines. Exploring several techniques I came quickly to the conclusion that 3D printing was going to be the best one. By using 3D printing I could design a heel that wasn’t going to be too heavy, and keep it’s fragile look, while at the same time it was strong enough to cary a woman body.
Are you going to use this 3D printing technique also in the future, for you shoe design or anything else?
I probably will, the technique enables designs that are normally impossible to make by hand. And it is great for shoe design because you can print in special materials which otherwise would be to heavy for a shoe. In the future I would like to print not only a heel but a whole shoe."
By the way, i found her instagram: http://instagram.com/amber.ambrose.aurele, where clearly read about her nomination. She wrought that her first collection was submitted to the MUUSE x VOGUE Talents - Young Vision Accessories Award 2014. It qualified for the finals and will now be presented to Vogue Senior Fashion Editor and Vogue Talents Editor Sara Maino, who will select the final winner.
I chose this artist because of her last work which you can see on the 1.2 picture. The shape, the silhouette and using materials are going together very well. She didn't wright about working process or details of making, but i can understand while looking on her work, that she was inspired by the sunshine in the river or it's reflection on the water. Anyway she chose correct materials to touch off the main idea. I think that it's acrylic plastic, but maybe she used a 3 D printer as well.
2. CHOSEN SHOP: V&A SHOP
I was in V&A about 3 times and always visiting a museum shop in the end. People who made it are a big professionals. First of all i want to start with designing and interior of this shop. Room was split on 4 zones, so people have to go around and then in the middle if they want to see everything. The colors are calm and the atmosphere is very cosy, so you can spend about 30-40 minutes by staying their and looking around.
By the way in this shop every month you can see more than 20 th new collection of jewelry, which you can buy with a strong desire. And it's an interesting thing that jewelry go under the glass like an exhibit in museum, but it's almost always easy to buy.
Above all, everybody will find comfortable to buy souvenirs, clothes, books, food in the same shop especially before holidays.
3. CHOSEN EXHIBITION: Jewelry exhibition in V&A museum.
I chose V&A museum (which is the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 4.5 million objects) because it has an adorable accessory exhibition on the 3d floor. The jewellery collection, containing over 6000 items is one of the finest and most comprehensive collections of jewellery in the world and includes works dating from Ancient Egypt to the present day, as well as jewellery designs on paper. The museum owns pieces by renowned jewelers Cartier, Jean Schlumberger, Peter Carl Fabergé, Hemmerle and Lalique. Other items in the collection include diamond dress ornaments made for Catherine the Great, bracelet clasps once belonging to Marie Antoinette, and the Beauharnais emerald necklace presented by Napoleon to his adopted daughter Hortense de Beauharnais in 1806. The museum also collects international modern jewellery by designers such as Gijs Bakker, Onno Boekhoudt, Peter Chang, Gerda Flockinger, Lucy Sarneel, Dorothea Prühl and Wendy Ramshaw, and African and Asian traditional jewellery. Major bequests include Reverend Chauncy Hare Townshend's collection of 154 gems bequeathed in 1869, Lady Cory's 1951 gift of major diamond jewellery from the 18th and 19th centuries, and jewellery scholar Dame Joan Evans' 1977 gift of more than 800 jewels dating from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century.
"BESPOKE" / 2 WEEKS PROJECT
1.1 Collection 2012
1.2 Sunshine in the River Amber Ambrose Aurèle Collection L’amour, Her happiness is never her own, 2014.
V&A Shop inspired me to create something by myself, because i saw a lot of exiting ideas, shapes, colors and silhouettes, which can be a good starting point. Some of them got an amazing and interesting combinations of colors and materials, and at the same time some of them got really simple shapes but interesting meaning, so i can use this observation in my future project and play with it.
During my visiting i was trying to understand who or what inspired artists for their collections. Because its interesting to see developing idea, understand the working process and their chosen object as inspiration.
It was imposible to take pictures inside of the gallery, so i just noted the names and details of interesting outcomes. I liked an idea of gold mask made of wire (looks like at first side) which was made by English Artist Peter Page, at the same room i found another adorable piece, it was a neckless "ring of fire" by Marjorie Schick. It was curious for me to know, how did they use so difficult material and how made it so soft and glossy. If i create a new project it will be a head or neck accessory, because i like to work with the silhouette and movement.
"SMALL CHANGE"/ 1 MONTH PROJECT.
UNIT 5 &6
8 December 2014
Research, Investigation, Designing, Making
It was Introduction day of project brief and ‘Small Change’ Sustainability Conference in the end of the day. I heard very profitable information about material production, which helped me to realize how important to work with sustainable materials and develop jewelry market in to organic way. I don't want see people and animals dying just because of rich consumers.
"The intention of sustainable design is to "eliminate negative environmental impact completely through skillful, sensitive design". Manifestations of sustainable design require no non-renewable resources, impact the environment minimally, and connect people with the natural environment. Beyond the "elimination of negative environmental impact", sustainable design must create projects that are meaningful innovations that can shift behaviour. A dynamic balance between economy and society, intended to generate long-term relationships between user and object/service and finally to be respectful and mindful of the environmental and social differences". (c)
To start my research and investigation for this project, i need to answer the following questions and record my responses in writing and through images:
9 December 2014
Today we had library research session and Library Materials lecture.
This day was the most important for me because of profitable information about e-library, l-services, archives and everything what can be helpful with my research. I have never thought that we've got so much ubiquity, if i knew it earlier i'll be more luminous.
After 'library materials' lecture i suddenly understood that i want to create my own sustainable material for the future jewelry. All videos about CSM students which develop simple materials and create a new one inspired me to experiment with everyday objects/materials and maybe find something absolutely new... I've got an idea to press cotton and egg shells and create a nest with a birds, because 1 year a go i saw heartbreaking video about birds which died early because of eating a toxic rubbish which came from the ocean. I really worried about everything which happening with the nature, so if i can found or create a new organic material and use it for explaining my opinion about animals and their role in the world circle i will do it and encourage other people to do the same.
Today we had 1 hour project which helped everyone to understand the future shape of their accessories. We didn't have enough time to sketch something in our sketchbooks, so everybody immediately started to work with newspaper, colored scotch tape and scissors.
Everything was so swiftly, and to be honest i don't have enough experience with folding paper, i only used to cut it. Everybody did 3D models, worked with origami techniques, folding or covering (paper + tape cover), so i was trying to create something different, because its not interesting to create the same staff as everyone did.
Finally i made rose shape. Yes, again. I don't like that every time i tried to do something new i see only flowers in my mind. Of course different shapes, but flowers. I need to move from it, otherwise i'll be simple designer with boring works. Next time i will try something absolutely new.
11 november 2014
Our lesson started with the next questions:
• HOW MUCH DO YOU CONSUME?
• HOW MUCH RUBBISH WILL YOU GENERATE IN YOUR LIFE TIME?
• DID YOU EVER CONSIDER WHERE YOUR RUBBISH WILL GO, OR THE IMPACT THE PRODUCT HAD ON THE ENVIROMENT WHEN IT WAS PRODUCED?
The task was to make a hat from scratch, entirely from paper and string. The main idea was to “making something from nothing.” Turning invaluable materials into valuable items through careful craftsmanship and making. It was funny to realize, that you are making a real cap by using paper. Easy technique and can be useful in different projects. Chip materials, easy to create drafts.
I enjoy the process and did everything quickly. But the biggest problem was to move from the rose shape which i used again (because of flexible lines and silhouette).
"WORLD COLIDE" / 1 WEEK PROJECT
19 January 2015
Unusual partnerships or collaborations between companies and designers can be a way of generating exciting products whilst creating new interest in established brands. For a collaboration to be successful i must create a product that manages to heighten the importance of both parties, and offers something that will promote admiration and loyalty to either the brand or the establishment or both.
Today i started researching about given brand "Black and Decker" and a partnership "London Transport Museum".
1) BRAND "BLACK & DACKER":
20 January 2015
Today i was trying to find similarity between given brand and establishment. It's easy to see the similar style and colors. Both of them are using red, black and white colors, all of them has got motor or mechanism, and also a sport style. I think that the jewelry I'm planning to made will be for men, not for women. But I'm still confusing about shape and part of the body which i cane use for my final outcome. There is no time to do something huge and no opportunity to work in a workshop, because of second project. So maybe it can be small, glossy, sporty, black color with using metal, or with using tires or different mechanisms? I should draw more and deeply research the question.
Also today i went to the LT museum to find isperation and clearly understand the starting point. It was very helpful to see everything in real time face to face. I could saw the mehanism of all cars and buses, went through the old undegraund, saw the interesting reflection of the light and so on. I started thinking about materials which i can use for my final piece. First of all i need to chouse wire, metal and plastic, because it's the most popular detales in both (brand & museum).
I found interesting to see the history of transport development and different exhibits of varied senturies. I need to start the brainshtoming and find 10 ideas just for understanding the future concept.
22 January 2015
Today i was trying to find other similarity between my brand and place. It was curiously to find a lot of identical things as logo shape for example. The London Transport museum has got a circle shape with the line in a center and "Black and Decker" has lines as well. So i started to think about tubes, because on the underground maps we can see a lot of lines with different colors.
First of all i sketched my ideas with circle shape. I thought that it can be interesting to make a hand piece, because all this hard men work is all about hands, as material i chose red plastic. 'Cause all this brands have got red (white and black) colors in there main palette. Then i moved to the line shape and started work with a paper drafts. I cut 8 pieces of paper and folded them in different variations, just to check.
I realized that all my making shapes are gorgeous, but they looks like my previous Bespoke project, so i moved further.
26 January 2015
27 January 2015
2) ESTABLISHMENT "LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM"
The London Transport Museum, or LT Museum based in Covent Garden, London, seeks to conserve and explain the transport heritage of Britain's capital city. The majority of the museum's exhibits originated in the collection of London Transport, but, since the creation of Transport for London (TfL) in 2000, the remit of the museum has expanded to cover all aspects of transportation in the city. The museum operates from two sites within London. The main site in Covent Garden uses the name of its parent institution, sometimes suffixed by Covent Garden, and is open to the public every day, having reopened in 2007 after a two year refurbishment. The other site, located in Acton, is known as the London Transport Museum Depot and is principally a storage site that is open on regular visitor days throughout the year. The museum was briefly renamed London's Transport Museum to reflect its coverage of topics beyond London Transport, but it reverted to its previous name in 2007 to coincide with the reopening of the Covent Garden site. London Transport Museum is a registered charity under English law.
The museum's main facility is located in a Victorian iron and glass building that originally formed part of the Covent Garden vegetable, fruit and flower market. It was designed as a dedicated flower market by William Rogers in 1871 and is located between Russell Street, Tavistock Street, Wellington Street and the east side of the former market square. The market moved out in 1971, and the building was first occupied by the London Transport Museum in 1980. Previously the collection had been located at Syon Park since 1973 and before that had formed part of the British Transport Museum at Clapham. On 4 September 2005 the museum closed for a major £22 million refurbishment designed by Bryan Avery of Avery Associates Architects to enable the expansion of the display collection to encompass the larger remit of TfL which administers all forms of public transport. Enhanced educational facilities were also required. The museum reopened on 22 November 2007. The entrance to the museum is from the Covent Garden Piazza, amongst the Piazza's many tourist attractions. The museum is within walking distance from both Covent Garden tube station and Charing Cross railway station.
"MEMORY" / 2 WEEKS PROJECT
6 January 2015
In the beginning of the project "Memory" i was trying to understand: "what is it all about?" and "what does it mean for me?".
The first, what i saw in my mind was a CHILDHOOD which contained a lot of details such as: dreams. fairytales, freedom, safety, fantasy and so on. I've got a lot of good stories and pictures from that time. And if someone asked me: "would i like to feel it again?", i will say "YES, absolutely!!!! But what is clearly reminds me about childhood? The most memorable is a FARM!!! Country side, where i lived during my life (every summer) is the biggest reminder of it. And of course the most valuable memories of my grandfather. Because only in this place i felt safe, love, happy and the most important thing for every child - fun.
But if i will see green fields or a lot of houses in Russian style it doesn't mean that i directly remember my childhood. There was especial attributes which stacked in my mind until now: rakes, garden-gate, barefoot, well and so on.
There for we now need to understand: "how to keep memories about those things?" and "how to wear my memories?"
8 January 2015
During two days i was trying to understand how to mix all recollections about farm and create only one piece of jewelry which will reminds me about childhood. I think that it's very stupid to take a lot of single ideas and mix them together. Because you wouldn't understand the real idea and feel special. It must be something very strong and memorable, only one symbol maybe, which will remind me about childhood immediately.
I Think that the most important feelings and memories i have from being with my grandfather who taught everything i know. He was very kind and openminded person with a very big hart. I remember how we did everything together and he was always very proud about me, which motivate a young girl to be better and better each day. He was a real hard worker and lived in a farm during his life, so he could create or built everything he wants.
Once i was walking through the streets in our farm and suddenly saw a candy house which my neighbor built for his daughters. I was so exited about such a lovely idea and immediately ran to the grandfather. I told him about candy house and ask him to built the same for me. He smiled gently and said "ok". But something went wrong and he built a real house with 2 rooms and terrace. "But grand father, i wanted candy house not the real one" - i was upset. "But you will grow up very soon, so it will be the best variation for you" - laughed the grandfather.He liked to joke
Another thing which i clearly remember is the big arms of my grandfather. He's got hard physical work during his whole life, so his hands became big because of arthritis. I remember how he puts his big arms on my shoulders and told something special, or how he hugged me and sleep with me during dinner brake when i was very little.
I thought that this things and memories can be my starting point. First of all i was thinking about my "candy' house, how can i built mini toy which i will wear? I don't want to create neckless or footwear, i want to see my jewelry when it will be on me. So which part of my body can be comfortable for the memory project? I think my fingers. They are always drawing, cooking, doing something, i will see them all the time.
So maybe it could be the ring? The ring which will reminds me about candy house of my grandfather... Sounds good.
Firstly i did a few sketches of house shapes. just to understand the silhouette of the future draft piece. And suddenly remember grandfathers workshop with all his instruments. So i was trying to mix house shapes and silhouettes of his hammers which became a windows in my drawings. I drew a lot of variations of house rings with one whole. I thought they can be linear shaped without any obvious volume, because for me it will looks more elegant and expansive. My chosen materials are wood and metal (for the roof).
Then i moved to another idea - big hands of my grandfather which he liked to put on my shoulders. I thought about silver material, because metal associate with power, heaviness and fastness. First of all i was trying to create a hand piece for knuckles. Because my grandfather had got a lot of corns because of rakes. And than i was thinking about whole hand, which can contact with another.
I sketched about 4 pictures of future neckless, where both hands were hugged each other, as a symbol of my grandfather who touched my small shoulders or something else.
12 January 2015
Very important day, we spoke with the tutors about our research and ideas. During the session teacher told me to develop my idea with a wood house rings, because we have only one week for making and she don't wan't me to be in stress. Another reason not to use my ideas with the metal hands because that process and final silver modeling will be very expansive. Also she told me to build a big house which will looks like a real (not just a tabulate symbol) and to think about moving or transforming roof.
After long brain storming and many variations, I went to the workshop and started to think about different shapes which i can make by using wood. I thought that my ring will be square shaped 1*1 sm each side, but when i spoke with the tutor from the wood workshop, he helped me clearly understoond, that its very small form and not very comfortable for making and to wearing. So i changed my decision to double ring. The final piece will be 5.6*4,2 sm, which will help me to build the transforming roof.
At first day he showed me different pieces of wood their difference and prerogatives, i understood that if tree has got very big holes between lines that's mean that it's young one and not strong, and at the same time if tree has got a lot of space between lines this suggests that it's old and solid.
I started to do the drafts of both types of rings, single a double (just in case) and used the young tree because i wanted to work with a new material and see the process of making with not a solid tree. And it was very useful, because i understood the specific of this material and hardness of polishing it and at the same time understood the technique of making the wood rings. It's not as difficult as i expected. The general preparation before polishing took me about 15 minutes.
13 January 2015
Today i started work with my final piece by using old wood not the young one. And was very surprised about snappy process, quality of material, good result and of course the final shape. I enjoyed to work with the wood, so i hope that in my future projects i will have ability to work with it in a big way.
I discovered that with an old tree i can easily polish the surface and clearly do the holes. After yesterday draft i understood how to make my final outcome more elegant and accurate, so i finished the base piece very quickly and moved to the roof.
Tutor from wood workshop recommended me to go to the metal w.s. so i can build my roof by using aluminum for example. It was very good idea but how should i construct the moving panels? First of all i was trying to do the draft, because it will be pity if i start with final piece and suddenly break it.
I had got a very long brain storming about mechanism of moving roof. Should i open it only from one side or it can be 2 moving panels? I asked myself "what is easier to make in a short period of time" and understood that idea with 2 panels is not very bed.
I cut 2 pieces of aluminum and started experiment with it. First one i wast trying to fold and the next one to roll. Anyway first of all i need to cut the wire and then choosing the right way of fixing it with the metal.
After talking with Karla i understood that it's easier to fold my roof and put the wire inside of the wholes, so panels can move. Anyway i need to do research today about mechanism and techniques of building roof and houses. Maybe it will helps me understand with my final outcome.
15 january 2015
Yesterday evening i started with researching of an architecture sphere. Found a lot of useful information for my project. For example types of wood joints, roof trusses overviews and others. The specific was very clearly for me but without practice it feels like something difficult. I drew a lot of variations of technical developments in my sketchbook and moved to the metal workshop to try everything by my own hands.
It's so sad that i have no time for practice of working with metal. I hate this material its very cold, edgy and not as flexible as i need. It was very hard to cut the 2 pieces of metal panels absolutely similar size and than cut the acute angle in it.
Another annoying thing was to made 2 similar pieces of copper rod. It took me a lot of time to cut and polish it in the both sides and finally made them similar size with the house length.
When i finished in a metal workshop i moved to wood class and continue work with my house. I decided to do the holes in my panels to put the copper rod in it. It was quiet hard to made everything right from the first time. I drilled the whole from one side, but it was very difficult to do the same with another one, it came of absolutely different. First of all i was thinking that to drill the holes only on one side and then make the small deep on another just for normal fixing is a good idea. But after long annoying deconstruction of my roof and constantly derail i moved to another idea - to make holes from both sides and fix them with a small piece of wood.